Ellen

Knitting in fabulous Las Vegas!

Post by Ellen
August 12th, 2006

I’ve been in Vegas for a day and a half now and have been astonished to find that most people are not here for the knitting. Yes, I know. It is shocking.

Instead, they seem to have come for this:
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I decided not to spoil the fun by reminding them that, in the end, the casino always wins.

But just to catch you up on my road adventures, I enjoyed my last day in Tucson with an early morning drive out to the desert in The Car:
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Car like that won’t let you down.

The Car and I saw these wonderful scenes:
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Hello, Saguaro!

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Yes, I suppose there is a certain sameness about these shots of the Sonora Desert, but I’m still feeling the love.

I visited Lynn at Kiwi Knitting Company, a wonderful shop not far from the University of Arizona. Since I was mere hours away from flying out of Tucson, Lynn and I got to discussing the new restrictions on carry-on items and wondered whether or not I would now be allowed on the airplane with my Addis.

Me: Well, it’s not like I personally am inclined to violence, but you could garotte someone with those things. You know, if you had ninja training!

Lynn: To me, it would just be easier to take one with a longer cable, say a 60″, and strangle your victim.

See what knitters talk about when no one else is around? When I related this conversation to my dear sister, she thoughtfully added, “Hmm. If you were going to go the strangulation route, you could probably just use a length of cabled yarn. It has a lot of tensile strength.”

If knitters ever go over to the dark side, God alone can help us.

Since Lynn went a long way towards making me feel right at home in Tucson, I couldn’t in good conscience leave her shop without a little something to remember her by:
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Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock makes such a nice souvenir, shown here in colourway “Tahoe.”

The air travel story had a happy ending, though. The TSA confiscated my toothpaste and sunscreen since those are items universally carried by “evildoers,” but they let me on with my garotte Addis.
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Sock progress was therefore made.

Ever notice how “the evildoers” never seem to get sunburned? Yeah, well. Now we know why.

Now I’m here in Las Vegas where everything is 100% authentic:
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Even in his wildest dreams, Ramses the Great never foresaw this.

Life inside the pyramid—everything, all the time!
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Did anyone ever mention to the Luxor bigwigs that pyramids were burial structures? Doesn’t send the most positive message, guys. I’m just saying, is all.

The pharoahs prided themselves on their vast chlorinated swimming pools with poolside bars:
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Now I hate to be a party-pooper, but I probably just better confess—however reluctantly—that I do not love being in Vegas. John Ruskin once pompously said, “When I am at Paddington, I feel I am in hell.” But for all Ruskin’s pomposity, if you substitute “the Strip” for “Paddington,” that sentence would pretty much describe my feelings about Las Vegas.

Of course, Oscar Wilde took the wind out of Ruskin’s sails when he responded, “Ah well, when you are in hell, you’ll think you are only at Paddington.”

Touché, Oscar. When I go to hell, perhaps I’ll think I’m just in Vegas.

Sarah

Knit Sisters Fall Challenge and Contest

Post by Sarah
August 10th, 2006

Ellen and I, after much deliberation and soul-searching, are pleased to announce the Fall 2006 Knit Sisters Challenge and Contest!

In honor of the upcoming change of seasons (and believe me, that change cannot come soon enough for me) we would like to invite all our blog readers to design a knitted item with a leaf motif.

fall leaves 

(This is the glory that is the maple tree in my front yard–last year.)

Here’s the scoop:

1.  The challenge starts now and will end October 15, 2006.

2.  Any knitted item that incorporates a leaf motif is fair game.  This includes anything from the largest sweater to the smallest cravat or wristlets.

3.  Any technique may be used:  lace, intarsia, stranded, cables, brocade, etc., as long as the end motif is recognizable as a leaf.

4.  Send us a photo of your item by Sunday, October 15, 2006, and we will post all the photos in a gallery on the blog.

5.  On October 16, 2006, we will open the floor to voting for your favorite knitted leaf item.  Send us an email or post a comment with your 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place choices.  We’ll leave the voting open for 2 weeks, or until October 29, 2006.

6.  There will be prizes (!!!) for at least the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place finishers.  I will be giving handspun yarn to the winners; there may be other prizes as well.  (We’re leaving that door open for now.)

I will be working on my new design Blue Bamboo

 blue bamboo leaf detail

during this time, although it will not be included in the voting, for obvious reasons.  Ellen promises me that she will come up with something….

Need ideas for sources for leaf patterns and motifs?  Here are a few of my favorites:

1.  Any of the Barbara Walker Treasuries

2.  Nicky Epstein’s Knitting on the Edge, Knitting Over the Edge, and the brand-new Knitting Beyond the Edge

3.  1000 Great Knitting Motifs by Luise Roberts

4.  Latvian Dreams by Joyce Williams

There are many, many more, of course.  Harmony Guides, Fair Isle books, lace knitting books, etc., etc. 

If you have questions, feel free to email me or leave a comment and I will get back to you.  Have fun!  May your flying needles create a cool breeze in these hot times!

Ellen

A little light chop, or The Tucson Report

Post by Ellen
August 9th, 2006

Don’t you just love air travel? I know I do.

You know what my favorite part is? Well, it’s when the pilot comes on the intercom with his aw-shucks-folks drawl he copied from Chuck Yeager (I am freely borrowing from Tom Wolfe here, but frankly I just cannot improve upon his description) and says, “Way-ell folks, it looks like we’re gonna to be headin’ into a little light chop up here fer a bit, so if you’ll just make sure those seat belts are fastened low and tight, we’ll get you on through to some smoother air jest as soon as we can.”

I know that most of these dudes used to be fighter pilots for the military and therefore are used to all kinds of airborne shenanigans—up to and including taking enemy fire. So when I hear one of them start drawling on about “a little light chop,” I prepare to lose my lunch.

My tolerance for turbulence has fallen off in recent years.

So while I was working on these bamboo socks,
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we get the usual announcement about a little light chop. I’m not happy about it, but I go on knitting the sock. That is, until the flight attendant comes on and says, “We are asking at this time that all passengers return to their seats and remain there with their seat belts fastened.”

Fine.

Then he adds, “In the event of an emergency evacuation (emphasis mine), passengers are advised to leave all cabin luggage behind.”

Under my breath, I utter what I suspect will be my last words on this earth, deeply profound words that will resonate down through the ages:
“Oh shit.”

Then I start to think, is this his idea of a joke? And besides, do they really have to say that anyway? If the plane is in the process of crashing, do they really think that I’m gonna stand there at the evacuation slide screaming, “Not without my backpack! I will not leave this plane without my yarn and my travel snacks!”

Course not. I could easily leave behind those travel snacks.

Since I’m writing this now, you already know that we didn’t all die in a fiery crash. And in fact, after I kicked that flight attendant in the shins said a fond farewell to our flight crew, I trundled on over to the Tucson Budget Rental Car counter where they proceeded to upgrade me to this:
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Feast yer eyes upon her: a red Mustang convertible. Gimme those keys!

There are those who say that the four most beautiful words in the English language are, “I love you, darling.”

Personally, I’d vote for “unlimited mileage, limited liability!”

Had I known that they were going to give me this car, I would have planned to stay in Tucson longer. Like say, five or six years.

But even though I’ll be rambling on by the end of the week, here’s where I’ll be working for the next couple of days:
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Otherwise known as the home of the:
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Tucson has been experiencing some dramatic desert thunderstorms that seem to come out of nowhere and roil up into clouds like these:
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They are rawther impressive. I would not have been entirely surprised had God himself had emerged from behind this cloud and delivered a series of commandments.

Self-portraits with beads and bland hotel room:
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I am really quite easily entertained.

Next stop: Fabulous Las Vegas. And yes, I will be doing dissertation research there. Research for my dissertation on blackjack and free cocktails risk and the nuclear establishment. More soon…

Sarah

The Year of Knitting for Me

Post by Sarah
August 8th, 2006

I actually finished a couple of small projects yesterday.  The striped scarf for Rob:

finished striped scarf 

(The artwork to the right of the scarf is a piece of Rob’s that hangs in our living room.  It’s one of my favorites–so spare yet so evocative, somehow.)

And the orange cabled socks for me:

orange cabled socks 

Obviously, I decided that the scarf was going to go to Rob, although I began this year with the stated and firm intention that this was “The Year of Knitting for Me.”  You see, I keep a running record throughout the year of all the projects I have finished, both big and small.  Last year’s count was a total of 28 projects; only five (5!!) of those were for me.  I decided that this was a pitiful and paltry amount and that this year I would knit only for myself.

I began the year by finishing up all the projects that were hanging over my head for other people.  A sweater vest for my dad, a cardigan for Rob, a cat bed for Alex’s cat, a pair of socks for Rob.  Since then, I have made three sweaters and two pairs of socks for myself, two baby blankets (for other people), and a scarf for Rob (see above).  It seems I have a problem sticking to my resolution.  I would like to think that this is because I am a naturally generous and giving person, and not simply because I am weak-willed.

In my defense, however, I have done lots and lots of spinning this year.  Somehow, giving myself permission to be selfish with my knitting opened the door to spending my time spinning.  And I have loved spending that time at my wheel.  I’ve completed nine spinning projects, large and small, this year.  Plus lots of washing, combing, and otherwise playing around with fiber.

So perhaps a better title for the year would be:  The Year of Spinning and Knitting for Me.  And the year’s not over yet, is it?  The fall has terrific possibilities.

Like this one:

quilted and double knit swatch

I’m playing around with another idea here, a kind of wrapped and belted jacket with a quilted pattern and double knit edging/neckline treatment.  The yarn is a wool tweed (the solid green) and a hand-painted brushed mohair that I bought long ago at New York Sheep and Wool.

Here’s a detail of the quilting pattern:

quilted pattern 

Lest you wonder about Blue Bamboo, I have a master plan for that pattern which I will be announcing later in the week.  Stay tuned!

Ellen

Beach 7, Knitting 0

Post by Ellen
August 7th, 2006

It’s great to be back and have a chance to get caught up on the development of the Blue Bamboo and the fine points of copyleft vs. copyright. Thanks to Sarah and Alex for keeping the blog fires burning in my absence!

The Outer Banks of North Carolina was a magical place, replete with beautiful beaches,
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wildlife refuges that doubled as refuges for derelict buildings,
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delightful beach houses,
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Our house, “No Regrets,” shown here with my young friends who, for national security purposes, shall be known only by their code names: Red and The Cardinal.

vicious mosquitos and biting flies,
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The Cardinal slaps demonically persistent mosquitos who are thwarting his attempts to photograph the scenery.

state parks that looked remarkably like the Sahara Desert,
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The Cardinal and Red at Jockey Ridge State Park. Although the heat index that day was 117 degrees, they appear cheerful and sprightly. Because that’s just the kind of really swell people they are.

handy clotheslines,
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Because occasionally some of us had run-ins with ocean waves and ended up just the tiniest bit drenched and encrusted with sand and small stones. But we learned a valuable lesson: if you fight the sea, you will be schooled by the sea.

and picturesque paths to the beach.
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Wait! Come back! I can explain everything!

Red took her first surfing lesson,
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Laird Hamilton’s got nothing on her.

while The Cardinal, his mother, and I took photos and loafed on the beach.
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During the week, we discovered a unique retail outlet for beer and various libations called The Brew Thru. I have not yet gotten over my amazement at the existence of not just one, but multiple Brew Thrus in the Outer Banks. Because what this is—and if you haven’t seen it you might be tempted to think I’m exaggerating (which heaven knows I would never do here on the blog)—is a drive-though beer store. I am not kidding.

There’s something more than a little Darwinian about allowing people to buy a case of Coors from the driver’s side window of their Ford Explorer.

Speaking of Coors (aka “Colorado Kool-Aid”), should you find that your favorite Outer Banks beach shop is fresh out of Confederate flag bikinis, there are still other tasteful and dignified options for beach wear:
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Truly, there are no words.

But now, although the shame is very great, I must confess that I did not knit much at all while I was in North Carolina. I offer in my defense these two obstacles: (a) the heat index was always between 115 and 120 degrees and that’s the kind of meteorological figure that says “Brew Thru” rather than “wool” to me; and (b) I was experiencing some overuse, carpal-tunnel-style pain in my left wrist. I am pleased to report that the latter seems fine now after a week of rest.

Which is a darn good thing, too, because I’m about to go on the road for some dissertation research and after those long days in the archives, I’ll need knitting. I’ll need it badly. I’ll take those same projects—Icarus, the bamboo socks, and Rogue—and hope for better progress this time.

First stop, Tucson. I’ll be reporting from there on Wednesday…

Sarah

Friday’s leftovers

Post by Sarah
August 4th, 2006

I’m a little worn out today, and consequently have had a lazy kind of day.  I’ve gotten a few things done, but not much.  I did go ahead and put a facing on the leaf edging for Blue Bamboo. 

leaf edging with facing 

I just used the same yarn, having had no luck finding anything silk or rayon in the stash that would work for the facing.  I like that idea, though, and I’m definitely going to keep it mind for a future project.  (By the way, the yarn I’m using for this is Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece in the color “Blue Paradise.”  It has stood up remarkably well to all my experimenting and ripping out.  Good show, Brown Sheep!)  I did go down a needle size for the facing, though, and then attached it with a half-graft.

Diane asked in the comments if you could finish each leaf point separately, like a sawtooth border.  I don’t know how exactly you could do that one this type of edging, which is picked up from the vertical edge and worked outward.  However, there are leaf edgings which achieve that kind of look that are worked in a strip and then applied, or can be worked perpendicular to the edge and joined to the body every other row, like you would on a shawl border.

Here’s a detail of the leaf motif that will go on the upper back; I didn’t think it showed up too well in yesterday’s photo.

blue bamboo leaf detail

I also finished another skein of the cabled yarn.

cabled yarn

When I went outside to take my photos late this afternoon, Tortellini came over and talked to me for a while.

Tortellini 8-4-06

She loves to be outside in the summer, and walks through the grass as though she were a big cat stalking her prey on the plains of Africa.

Sarah

Wool wash

Post by Sarah
August 3rd, 2006

First, let me say thanks to Alex for his thought-provoking post yesterday.  I’m going to have to read it again just to make sure I have a good grasp of all the salient points!

Yesterday I started washing the lamb’s wool I got from John.  When I wash my wool, I do it in my kitchen sink; I used to wash fleece in my washing machine, but then we got a front-loading washer, and it doesn’t work so well for washing fleece, although it’s a gem in all other ways.  But I digress.  I put the wool in lingerie bags and wash it in the hottest water that will come out of the tap.  (Pretty hot.)  I add some plain old laundry detergent to the water.  (Purex Free and Clear in my case.)

First wash:

washing lamb's wool first wash 

I soak this for about 20-30 minutes. Then I pull it out of that water, gently squeeze as much dirty water as I can from the bags of wool, run another sink full of very hot water, add detergent, add wool, and soak for another 20-30 minutes.  Second wash:

washing lamb's wool second wash 

Repeat the above procedure, sans detergent.  (We’re rinsing now.)  First rinse:

washing lamb's wool first rinse

Repeat squeezing, running water, soaking, etc. for a second rinse.  (I didn’t take a picture of that one since it looks much the same.)  Then I put the bags into my washing machine for just the spin cycle (very important) and spin all the excess water out.  Finally, I hang them up to dry, outside if at all possible.

And I get this:

washed lamb's wool                                   (That’s Rob’s finger poking into the shot.)

I love wool.

I worked on my Blue Bamboo swatches yesterday as well, but first I had to (you guessed it) rip out the old ones.  I rethought and redesigned the leaf motif for the back of the sweater, so it grows organically out of the bamboo stitch and is no longer applied as a separate piece.  This was quite a feat of charting, let me tell you.

blue bamboo swatch

I also fiddled a bit with the leaf edging. 

leaf edging detail

As you can see, the edging is still on the needles.  I’m still thinking about how to finish this edging.  I woke up this morning with a cool idea in my head:  wouldn’t it be great to face the edging with a lighter-weight, slinky yarn like rayon?  Kind of like a lining in a jacket.  A visit to the stash seems in order.

Knitting, copyrights, and copyleft

Post by Alex
August 2nd, 2006

I should warn you from the outset that this is somewhat of a long post.

I’m Alex, previously known on the site as “the nice fellow engaged to Ellen,” and “the guy who does the computer stuff.” In my little job of filling in while Ellen is enjoying some fun-in-the-sun, I thought it might be fun to write a Russian novel little bit about the advantages and disadvantages of copyleft licenses as applied to knitting. Many of the knitters I have talked with seemed to have an ambivalent relationship with copyright issues—they know they aren’t supposed to make photocopies from their knitting books to give to others (but do it anyways), and are always quick to stamp a copyright notice on their own patterns—and it seems like this might be a good way to talk about copyright issues in an environment other than “things you are not allowed to do and should feel guilty that you in fact do.”

There are knitters, there are lawyers, there are lawyers who are knitters, and then, somewhere else, is Alex.
There are knitters, there are lawyers, there are lawyers who are knitters, and then, somewhere else, is Alex.

First things first: though Ellen finds me quite adorable, I am, in fact, not a knitter. I’m in fact fairly ignorant of the nuts and bolts of the craft (all I know is that it involves needles, yarn, and cursing) and despite Ellen’s attempts to “educate” me about it, I somehow remain more-or-less clueless. Alas, we all have faults.

Another strike against me (or perhaps a benefit?) is that I’m not a lawyer, and this is not legal advice. I’d make a lawyer joke here but I know my father (who is a lawyer), could probably think of a much better one.

To my credit, I am a graduate student, and I have done some reading (and writing) on intellectual property issues, and gone to conferences and heard “experts” debate amongst themselves on these things. As one scribe has said, “I ain’t passed the bar, but I know a lil’ bit.” On that note, I’ll end with the introductions and get into the meat of it…

(One last disclaimer: my knowledge of copyright law extends only as far as the United States borders. I have no idea if any of this would make sense applied internationally. Much of it should… but in any case, I don’t know for sure.)

Copyrights and copylefts

Copyrights are, philosophically speaking, supposed to be temporary monopolies given to people over their creative and expressive works. They are meant to reward authors (of any sort of creative work) with the ability to legally control the fruits of their creativity within the economic marketplace. I don’t think there’s anything too terribly wrong with that in an abstract sense—people who produce creative works, whether they be books, poems, music, photographs, paintings, computer programs, or, say, knitting patterns, should have the ability to make a few dollars off of their hard work.

However copyrights aren’t given out just because someone deserves them. Intellectual property laws are usually based in the idea that if you give creators protection over their creations, it will encourage them to make the creation in the first place. Some artists are happy slaving away in poverty, but I’ll bet that even they get tired of wearing cheap shoes. Copyrights are given to expressive works, and patents are given in the case of inventions.

Copyrights are limited monopolies given to expressive works of all forms. Just about anything creative automatically generates copyright protections.
Copyrights are limited monopolies given to expressive works of all forms. Just about anything creative automatically generates copyright protections.

But the tension between intellectual property being used to stimulate production on the one hand, and it being used to inhibit production on the other, has been there from the beginning. Just as the patent system can be used to encourage companies to invest in expensive research and development, it can just as easily—perhaps easier, depending on the legal circumstances—be used to push competitors out of business. Copyrights, which can (depending on the technicalities) remain legally in force a hundred years longer than patents can, have become synonymous with legal prohibition of expressive work in many people’s minds: those little circled-C’s mean “Hands off! Beware! Don’t copy or misuse or do anything with this that I don’t approve, or I’ll sue!”

The approach of the free content movement—the copyleft people—has been to try to encourage copyright practices which allow great freedom for innovation and collaboration, but also offer the author certain controls over their work as well. The essence of it is that most people really don’t need to have “all rights reserved”—they can give away substantially more rights, if done carefully, and won’t suffer any negative consequences (that is, they can still make a buck off of their work). While it is clear that Disney isn’t going to want to do this anytime soon, most content producers are, thankfully, not Disney. This granting of additional rights is done through the use of licenses.

How licenses work

Every time someone uses copyrighted material with the permission of the copyright holder, they are doing it under a license. In other words, a license is basically the terms by which a copyright holder allows others to use their copyrighted works. The copyright holder cannot dictate all of the terms of use—certain uses are deemed “fair use” under U.S. copyright law and can be done without the permission of the copyright holder without being copyright infringement—but they have a pretty broad leeway.

Licenses are what allow copyrighted works to be used by others, and to be used in derivative works. They are agreements between the copyright holder and the user of the material.
Licenses are what allow copyrighted works to be used by others, and to be used in derivative works. They are agreements between the copyright holder and the user of the material.

Whenever you see a note at the bottom of a knitting pattern that says “not for commercial use,” that’s a license agreement, where the copyright holder is saying, “You can use this for any use that isn’t for commercial profit.” There are other types of things it could say as well, the most restrictive being something like “All rights reserved,” which is a legal way of saying, “Don’t even think about doing something with this other than purchase it and enjoy it for yourself.”

Copyleft licenses attempt to open up this combative atmosphere between content produce and content consumer by spelling out usage terms ahead of time and often in very specific legal code. The exact content of the licenses—and how comprehensible they will be to a non-legal eagle—can vary widely. Some, like the Free Software Foundation’s GNU Free Documentation License (originally meant for use with software manuals, but now used very widely) are complicated and almost-incomprehensible legal documents. Others, like the Creative Commons licenses, come with “human readable” versions as well as their “full legal” versions.

I’m going to use the Creative Commons (CC) licenses here as my examples because they are the most flexible, the easiest to understand, and are rapidly gaining influence. Unfortunately some of that flexibility means that you can use CC licenses in very non-“free” ways, but even then they are probably better than traditional copyright claims. Free, in the sense of “free content,” does not mean gratis, or “without cost,” but rather it is used in the sense of libre, or “freedom,” in the sense that they are not restrictive. Unfortunately in English these two very different meanings are kept in the same word, which can lead to some confusion. The computer people like to say “free as in speech, not as in beer,” but I think this just reinforces the stereotype that these people have no ear for language.

Creative Commons licenses are modular—you can pick and choose properties and create custom-fitting licenses for your needs. For example, one “module” you can have incorporated into your license is one which requires “attribution” of the work. In effect, it is a requirement that says, “Whatever you do with this piece of copyrighted material, you need to always credit me (or someone else) in the following manner.” Yes, you could just write that on something you produced without a CC license, but the CC license also says that in complicated legalspeak as well.

Another one of the “modules” is one which says, “This copyrighted material cannot be used for commercial purposes.” I don’t think this is actually as good idea as it usually sounds to most people—for many people the idea of “non-profit” has an allure of purity around it, but in practice many good things are technically “for profit” and the goals of a restriction like this (to avoid exploitation) can be accomplished by other means—but it is a good example of how these modules work. You could combine the two I’ve mentioned already, and have a license which permits any use of a piece of copyrighted material as long as it is not-for-profit and carries a certain by-line on it.

My least favorite “module” is one which says that no derivative works can be made with the copyrighted material. This is decidedly not free and should probably not be used in most situations—it almost defeats the purpose, in my opinion, since almost any use can be considered derivative (there are a few specific exceptions and clarifications laid out in the license, but nonetheless it is a bad condition).

My most favorite “module” is one they call “ShareAlike.” This is a feature in most free content licenses, and is usually the one which sets them apart from any other sorts of licenses in that they are viral (don’t worry, you can’t catch a cold from it). This means that if someone uses the material to make a derivative work (say, to use your short story along with others to make a collection of short stories), then the derivative work must be released under the same free license as your material was.

Viral licenses make it so that any derivative works of copyleft licenses are also copyleft. This not only keeps copyleft material free, it also makes it less likely that big-time copyright producers will want to use copyleft material, so there is a low chance of exploitation.
Viral licenses make it so that any derivative works of copyleft licenses are also copyleft. This not only keeps copyleft material free, it also makes it less likely that big-time copyright producers will want to use copyleft material, so there is a low chance of exploitation.

What this means it that the “freedom” can’t just be ended, and instead attempts to perpetuate itself indefinitely. Disney couldn’t take your story, use it in their own work, and then try to prosecute people for infringing on the derivative work. It is a very clever concept: Sure, you say, you can use my photograph in your collage. But you have to make it so that other people can use their collage if they want to, under the same permissive terms. Aside from making sure that free material stays free, this has other more practical effects as well, which I’ll get to in just a second when I apply this directly to knitting.

This doesn’t mean, though, that you can’t separately license your material later. For example, if I took a picture and released it under a free license, I could, if someone wanted to use it in a non-free collection, re-license it under different terms with them. The original picture and license would still hold (I couldn’t sue anybody for using it under those terms, that is), but I, as the content producer, would not be locked in to only allowing it to be used under a viral license.

Knitting and copyleft: How would is work? What is to gain? What is to lose?

So what does this amount to for knitters? First we have to consider what copyrights mean to knitting usually. For published books of knitting patterns, it often just means “don’t photocopy this except for your own personal use, and don’t use it as a basis for your own work.” For free patterns on the internet, it usually means, “you can make copies of this for others, but you can’t make any money off of it, and you can’t change the contents at all.” For the knitted designs themselves, it is usually (from what I can tell) implicitly understood by knitters to mean “don’t copy someone else’s design directly.”

There are often other conditions for the license, ones I admittedly don’t quite understand the purpose of, such as “don’t donate any finished products resulting from this to charity.” I have a feeling this is related to the complicated status of authorship in knitting—is a finished pair of socks the product of the designer or the knitter?—rather than a case of people desperately wanting to donate a $70 pair of socks to a shelter or people desperately wanting to stop them from doing so. This question of authorship is, I think, an important one that comes up in every craft, where it is clear that while the designer has a very important role to play, the actual execution of the design (with its color choices, its adaptations, its little fixes and changes, and its own struggle) cannot be said to be without authorship either (it is not “slavish copying,” which is one legal way to discuss a lack of authorship rights).

A final knitted garment is the combination of the creativity and skill of the designer with the creativity and skill of the knitter.
A final knitted garment is the combination of the creativity and skill of the designer with the creativity and skill of the knitter. The current method of dealing in copyrights in knitting primarily respect only the authorship of the designer, however.

So what is to gain by using copyleft licenses rather than traditional copyright warnings? Well, for one thing, it would potentially open up the atmosphere for more collaboration. Want to use someone else’s scarf motif on the sleeves of your sweater design? No (legal) sweat if the scarf design is under a free license. Want to distribute 20 copies of a pattern to your knitting group? Again, not an issue if it is under a free license.

If the licenses were sufficiently free (that is, they did not prohibit derivative works and did not prohibit non-commercial use) then you could even imagine taking a handful of copyleft patterns and putting them into a beautiful book and selling them. But notice, you wouldn’t be selling the intellectual property of the book—just the material (paper, ink, binding) and the labor. Since the book itself would have to be licensed under a free license, you wouldn’t be able to make money just by the fact of copyright alone—someone else could easily come along and make their own copies of the same book and sell them for themselves. In economic terms, this would mean that to use this for profit purposes would require extra value other than the intellectual property alone—what would make your book better than someone else’s with similar content might be the good paper you have printed it on, or the sample yarn you attach with it, or simply the fact that it comes from you, in some cases.

For big-time design producers, this probably looks like heresy. “Someone could make a book out of my patterns without my permission, much less without paying me? Yarn stores could give away free copies? Ack!” The big fear in most people’s minds when they read things like this is “the Disney fear”: a mega-corporation will come along, take your work, and turn it into a million-dollar blockbuster, and you’ll still be stuck in your shabby house.

In practice, this doesn’t happen — Disney makes their money from their intellectual property rights, and would never consent to releasing their work under a free license, and as such would never use a viral license.

Even if they did, though, that wouldn’t necessarily be the end of the world: they’d still be required to give credit to you, and credit is worth a lot in this world. OK, so Disney doesn’t pay you much for this film, but now that your name is out there it’ll definitely help you find work on your next film.

Which is a round-about way of saying that copyleft licenses are probably best for small-time producers, not big-business ones. They allow you to give away a lot, to get your name out there, and allow collaboration, with a few checks in place to avoid getting exploited.

The other advantage to the copyleft licenses is that one could also see them as being more respectful of the work that goes into actually creating the finished garment. Rather than being in the role of “the person who does what the designer tells them,” it could help to acknowledge—in terms of credit and authorship—that the translation from pattern to finished product is itself a creative and collaborative event, and the final product is really the work of at least two people, not just one.

Under a truly free license (i.e. one that did not contain “non-commercial” specifications”), a knitter would also be free to sell their finished products, as long as they gave credit where credit was due. I am sure that knitters would have varied opinions on the value of this, but it strikes me as strange that designers have used intellectual property claims as a way of restricting this sort of behavior. No doubt they fear the Disney situation (someone making money off of their hard work), but again, I not only find that unlikely to occur, but I think it fails to recognize that more than one person is doing the hard work in such a situation.

Conclusions: little to lose, much to gain?

In the knitting world, the small designer has very little to lose by using free licenses on some of their patterns. At the very worst they will get lots of exposure which they can then turn around later for other things. At the very best, it could foster a freer attitude towards knitting and designing, allow for stress-free collaborations and derivative works, and potentially present an alternative model for craft from its guild-like, protective past. Somewhere in between those extremes, the use of standardized licenses could also make copyright issues less ambiguous than they currently are. The goal of copyleft is to try and restore that balance between creativity and restriction, and attempts to do so by encouraging practices which would result in more collaboration and creation of content while preserving important aspects of authorial control used in traditional copyrights.

I apologize for being so long-winded about things here (Damn it, Jim, I’m an academic, not a blogger!), and hope that at the very least this might have provoked a greater awareness of copyrights as they apply to knitting, the goals of the copyleft advocates, and perhaps some food-for-thought about the idea of authorship. I’d be very interested in the response of knitters to these ideas (you can e-mail me at: alex [at] atomland-on-mars [dot] com, if you’d like), in part because it is a craft product (and somewhat different in that sense than most of the copyright situations which come up in copyleft discussions), and because I get most of my own understanding of knitting second-hand. I don’t think knitters have much to lose by using copyleft licenses, and could potentially have a lot to gain.

Some useful copyright links

I thought that while I was already writing a post long enough to make a Russian novelist blush (perhaps today we should call the blog The Nyet Sisters), I would post a few useful links for people interested in copyright issues in general. The first is a book which I recommend to anyone interested in copyright and copyleft issues, Lawrence Lessig‘s book Free Culture: How Big Media Uses Technology and the Law to Lock Down Culture and Creativity. Though the subtitle sounds a little conspiratorial, Lessig’s book is a very good intro to the history of copyright issues, the ways in which copyright has been used to stifle small creators, and is something of a rallying cry for the free content movement. Definitely worth a read, and it is a very accessible read at that, for a book on copyright law. Oh, and it’s available free online, which makes it even more exciting (if you are happy with reading a book on your computer, of course).

The next link is Stanford Copyright and Fair Use Center. I didn’t talk about fair use much in this article but if you are wondering about how much use counts as “fair use” under U.S. copyright law, this website is a great primer to “fair use” determination and gives lots of examples of relevant case law (which is, in the end, the best determination for fair use one has, outside of a court, which is not where you want to be).

And last is a somewhat useful Copyright FAQ for Knitters. This is concerned primarily with the questions of photocopying patterns (generally speaking, no, because they are under restrictive copyrights, boo). I find pages like this somewhat depressing reads, as they reflect the almost purely restrictive way that copyright is used today, but knowing about those restrictions is important (especially if you want to dream about alternatives).

Sarah

Blue Bamboo

Post by Sarah
August 1st, 2006

Yesterday I worked on my swatches and ideas for Bamboo.  Here’s my progress:

bamboo swatch 

I think the actual bamboo stitch is working well.  In fact, Rob looked at it (from the side) and said, “Hey, that looks like bamboo stacked up on top of each other.”  A small victory.  I’m not as sure about the leaf edging detail.

bamboo detail

In my attempts to narrow the leaf (to make it look more like an actual bamboo leaf, you know), I think I inadvertently made it look more pod-like than leaf-like.  I was thinking this over last night in bed before I fell asleep, and I have an idea that if I continue the yarnovers up the center of the leaf and put compensating decreases at the sides of the leaf, that might say “leaf” a little more clearly.  Defining the center vein of the leaf, in other words.  So I’ll probably rip out this edging today and try that out.

I’m also a little stymied by how to finish the outer edge of the leaf border.  On this swatch I did a simple little stockinette roll finish, which looks OK.  I though about applied I-cord or even a purl ridge and hem finish, but I think that might get too heavy.

And here’s the leaf detail for the back:

back leaf strip

Still on the needles.  I like the way this looks but am having my doubts about applying it as a patch over the bamboo stitch. 

back leaf strip on bamboo stitch

It looks a little clunky, somehow. I think it needs to flow more organically out of the bamboo stitch, but I’m having a hard time figuring out how to do that.  A rethink is in order.  I know what I want it to look like, it’s just the execution that’s the problem!  Isn’t that so often the case, in knitting as in life?

Sarah

Creative energy

Post by Sarah
July 31st, 2006

Well, as loyal readers of the blog know, Ellen is away this week on vacation.  She’s gone to the beach and I know we all hope that she gets a mean sunburn and vicious bites from sandfleas has a great time.  So, you’re stuck with me this week.  Bwa, ha, ha, ha, ha!  Actually, Alex will be doing a spot of guest-blogging on Wednesday, so that’s something we can all look forward to.

Over the weekend I dug out my design inspiration journal and starting pasting things in it.  I have a habit of tearing interesting photos out of catalogs, magazines, ads, etc. and stacking them up with a vague thought that “Someday soon I will paste these into my journal.”  Recently I’ve been collecting lots of garment ideas/details from catalogs, but I also collect nature photos with beautiful colors, other textile designs, visual patterns, quotes, and just pictures that capture my imagination. 

So, I started cutting these things up and gluing them down.  I try not to be too careful as I do this–just let things flow onto the pages as they come.  Not too much self-censoring, which I can all too easily fall into.  And doggone if this simple exercise didn’t get my creative juices flowing in a big way.  My head is now full of sweater ideas, garment details, and design enthusiasm.  I have three or four new designs floating around in my head, as well as new ways to approach some design problems I’ve been mulling over.

I have a little book that I bought years ago called The Fabric Lover’s Scrapbook, by Margaret Dittman.  I don’t know if this little gem is even still in print, and the projects look pretty dated, but it is chock-full of great ideas.  (This book is aimed mostly at quilters and sewers who accumulate prodigious amounts of fabric scraps and stash.)  Every time I look at it I come away with something new.  For example, Dittman has this to say about inspiration and creative energy:  “Welcome any source of inspiration, however irrational….Use the energy.  Seize the moment.  There’ll be plenty of time later to talk yourself out of it.”

So I took my creative energy and started work on a new design I’m tentatively calling “Bamboo.”   The basic idea is for an Asian-inspired jacket with a bamboo-like background stitch pattern, and edging and details with a narrow leaf motif.

I started experimenting with bamboo-like stitch patterns.  Here’s what I finally came up with: 

bamboo stitch pattern 

Obviously, this swatch hasn’t gotten too far yet.  (Although there was an intermediate swatch in there that got ripped out.)  And for the leaf motifs, I searched through Knitting on the Edge and came up with this:

windblown leaf border

Now, much as I love this book and revere Nicky Epstein, what I don’t like about it is that all the instructions are written out instead of in charted form.  I had to sit myself down and chart that puppy out:

windblown leaf chart 1 

That was the first incarnation.  Here’s the second:

windblown leaf chart 2 

I started knitting from this chart, and got far enough to know what I wanted to change.  I ripped that swatch, (have I mentioned I do a lot of ripping out?) and re-charted:

windblown leaf chart 3 

This chart is for the edging with the leaves bending away from the center on either side, plus they are longer and narrower.  My idea is that this motif will be a low center-back panel, knitted separately and sewn on, that gathers the back of the sweater just a bit at the waist.  The front edging will be a similar sort of leaf edging, but I haven’t gotten there yet.  Today’s task is to work on these swatches and charts and try to firm everything up.

Remember Friday’s task?  The peach preserves?  Here’s a half-eaten jar:

peach jam 

Harvey has really been enjoying these.

And, lest you think that I never knit on actual projects, my progress on the cabled sock:

cabled sock progress